Argentina, November 2011 - Cycling From the Salt Mines to the Jungle
The flights from Orlando and Miami were uneventful. American Airlines is a step closer to International first class with pajamas and duvets. But they're still in last place when it comes to liquor.
It really doesn't matter since I slept the entire flight.
November 8
After arriving, I took a taxi to the apartment I was renting. It had recently been modernized and had everything you could need. My only concern was security, the door had three locks.
I walked around most of the day, had pizza for lunch and steak for dinner. The size of the steak is smaller then I remembered, but it was still cheap compared to USA standards.
November 9
On my second day I took the subway (still only 25 cents) to meet the cycling tour guide. He explained the tour and the varying terrains. I can't wait to start.
We went to a cycle shop where I bought a new helmet and an Argentine cycling jersey.
I walked all the way back to my apartment, about 3-4 miles. I had delicious empanadas for lunch, along with a $2 liter of beer.
After a nap I headed to the main tourist section, but was met by a few dounpours before I got there. So I headed home to read before dinner.
I left at 7:30 but discovered the restaurant didn't open until 8:00. That was no surprise, the locals don't arrive until 9:00 or 10:00. No need to guess, I had steak and fries.
November 10
Today the weather was perfect. I read and relaxed in the morning. I had empanadas at La Reina de las Empanadas (the queen of the empanadas). They were excellent.
Then I walked and walked and walked and walked. I walked for over three hours, visiting my favorite sights and some new ones. I saw the Casa Rosada, Puerto Moderno, the Retiro train station, Florida Street and the Congress. I ended with a well deserved gelato.
Tonight's dinner was the usual, at a restaurant I've been to many times before - an amazing steak and fries.
November 11
Time to leave Buenos Aires for my flight to Salta. Today was the day the air traffic controllers decided to strike - no flight.
I contacted the tour guide, Mariano, and told him I need to take the van.
I got to his apartment, dropped off my luggage, and had my only meal of the day - a steak, of course.
We loaded the van and left around 7:00 pm. We picked up others along the way. I took a sleeping pill at around eleven and faded off.
November 12
After a restless night, I just tried to entertain myself for the ride. We did watch a DVD with Morgan Freeman and Angolina Jolie. It was very violent, but in English. I did not watch the second feature.
The ride was what books on tape were meant for. I finished the last ten hours of The Trials of Zion.
Finally at 5:30 pm we reached Salta. It took a while to find everyone else, and didn't make it to the hotel until 7:30 - 24.5 hours. Salta is in the northwest corner of Argentina, next to the Andes.
We had a late dinner and I was off to bed.
November 13
The Bo Hotel in Chicoana was awesome. The owners, Roxana and Tony could not have been any nicer. The food was amazing. I highly recommend the Bo Hotel.
After orientation we loaded onto the van and headed for our first downhill ride. Out of 67 kilometers, only one might have been uphill. We eventually started the downhill trek at 2:00 pm - I must remember I am on Latin time.
The first few kilometers were on paved roads, but the majority was on gravel, not my favorite. After adjusting my gears, off I went. The weather was great and the scenery even better.
We had lunch from 4-5:00 pm then another 30km to the hotel. I got back after seven, but in plenty of time for Roxana's lomo (steak) dinner.
November 14
Today we started riding a little earlier - 1:00 pm, after a stop at the airport and the bike shop.
Today's ride was in the tropical rain forest, and yes it rained. I donned my rain gear and pedalled uphill. At least it wasn't cold.
At the peak we decided not to have lunch in the rain. So we cycled downhill through the forest. The highlight was the cows in the road.
We finally had lunch at 4pm. We then took the van for hours to our next destination.
November 15
First of all, the colors in the mountains were awesome. You could see every color of the rainbow in Purmamarca..
We then took the van to the completely white and extremely dry Salinas Grandes - Great Salt Flats.
After lunch we had a 4km uphill ride before the 37 downhill ride, this time on paved roads. I really don't have cold weather gear, and at the peak it was about 45 degrees. At one point I had two jerseys, two jackets, a long sleeve t-shirt and a sweatshirt on. My only cold spot was my fingers.
As usual, I was last, stopping to take 100 pictures.
Once we reached Purmamarca, we took a 3km ride around town. Of course my bicycle gears went wacky.
For dinner I had tenderloin of llama. Well, it didn't taste like chicken. I ordered it rare, but never saw any pink. My friend Cristian, from France, said it tasted more like goat. I think llama is off my list. I did have alpaca in Peru years ago, that was much better.
The gate to my hotel was locked, so Christian boosted me over the wall. What am I, twelve?
November 16
Today we left Purmamarca for our normal two hour ride before cycling. We unloaded our bikes for our toughest day yet. We would go uphill 14 km and down 28. I told Mariano that my gears still were not working. After 1/2 hour of trying to fix them, he gave me his bike. It was a gravel trail uphill, at about 4000 meters.
So off I went, a half an hour after the pack. The first kilometer wasn't that bad, but then it seemed that the incline kept growing. I started having trouble breathing at this altitude. So I took it real slow and stopped often. Finally, after what seemed a marathon, I saw the van in the distance. This was only 10 of the 14 uphill kilometers.
I made it but realized I had exceeded my limit. After lunch I opted for the van. It took me the whole day to recover.
The van ride was extremely scenic. It was similar to the mountains in Arizona, but distinct. The final 10km was next to a dry riverbed. I will have to figure out why it was dry. It is spring here so the snow should be melting.
We arrived in Iruya and made our way to the simple hotel. There is no better way to describe it.
I expect dinner to be the same.
Dinner turned out to be very good. I had chicken Milanese with salad. I'll probably have the same tomorrow. I skipped desert and opted for bed.
November 17
Today was a break from cycling. We were hiking 16km to a small village, San Isidro. I thought it would be easy. Well the start was. We hiked 2km downhill (Yes I know I will have to walk the 2km uphill later.)
Then we started the uphill trek. We came to a small stream and had to cross by stepping on rocks. Not too bad. Well the next crossing was much longer and the rocks not as evenly spaced. Everyone, except Danny and I went across. We looked for alternative crossings, but there were none. So we took off our shoes and waded across. Mariano, the guide, said the future crossing would be easier. Well he told the truth. I didn't like crossing on rocks, but I did it 12 times.
We reached our destination and spent an hour or so in this tiny village. I found out the village just got electricity two years ago. We hardly saw a soul, except the children escaping from school.
Going back we had two choices - the high road or the low road. The high road had narrow paths near the cliffs. I opted for the stones across the river. I counted 12 crossings. Danny and I even crossed the difficult spot without taking our shoes off.
The hardest part, as I mentioned before, was the last two uphill kilometers. Tomorrow I will be glad to get back on the bike.
November 18
Today is another high altitude ride - starting at 3200 meters and climbing to 3700 meters, before a 32km decent to 2800 meters. I've opted for only the last two kilometer climb.
We started from Iruya for our normal two hour ride to the start. After 3km, the van died. They attempted to fix it until we gave up and cycled back to Iruya.
Today was the day the senior citizens received their Social Security payment. The all took there money and made their monthly purchases at the street fair below.
We waited a few hours before we decided to take a three hour public bus ride to Humahuaca. Most of the ride was on narrow dirt roads, next to steep cliffs, my favorite. From there we took another bus to Tilcara.
We heard the van was repaired, but it died after 5km. So it looked like our final day of cycling was canceled. I was secretly glad because this was the most difficult day, almost all uphill.
November 19
We slept late. Everyone went for a hike, but I read instead.
In the afternoon we took cars to Salta (where I stayed the night), and others took a bus to Buenos Aires (not another 24 hours for me).
Salta is pretty, but my two hour walking tour was more then enough. The shops were on the Kmart Woolworth ilk.
Whenever I travel, I bring lots of NY Times crossword puzzles. I only have a few left. I also download 6 or 8 a day when I have wifi. I would have gone crazy without the crossword puzzles or the books on tape.
November 20
My flight from Salta to Buenos Aires was uneventful, luckily. I went to the Axel Hotel, where I've stayed before. I was tired and exhausted, and all my clothes were full of dust. I called American Airlines and was able to change my ticket to fly home tonight. I spent the afternoon wandering the street fair in San Telmo. I bought six little framed photos of Buenos Aires. I had a fantastic steak before heading for the airport and my journey home.
November 7
The flights from Orlando and Miami were uneventful. American Airlines is a step closer to International first class with pajamas and duvets. But they're still in last place when it comes to liquor.
It really doesn't matter since I slept the entire flight.
November 8
After arriving, I took a taxi to the apartment I was renting. It had recently been modernized and had everything you could need. My only concern was security, the door had three locks.
I walked around most of the day, had pizza for lunch and steak for dinner. The size of the steak is smaller then I remembered, but it was still cheap compared to USA standards.
November 9
On my second day I took the subway (still only 25 cents) to meet the cycling tour guide. He explained the tour and the varying terrains. I can't wait to start.
We went to a cycle shop where I bought a new helmet and an Argentine cycling jersey.
I walked all the way back to my apartment, about 3-4 miles. I had delicious empanadas for lunch, along with a $2 liter of beer.
After a nap I headed to the main tourist section, but was met by a few dounpours before I got there. So I headed home to read before dinner.
I left at 7:30 but discovered the restaurant didn't open until 8:00. That was no surprise, the locals don't arrive until 9:00 or 10:00. No need to guess, I had steak and fries.
November 10
Today the weather was perfect. I read and relaxed in the morning. I had empanadas at La Reina de las Empanadas (the queen of the empanadas). They were excellent.
Then I walked and walked and walked and walked. I walked for over three hours, visiting my favorite sights and some new ones. I saw the Casa Rosada, Puerto Moderno, the Retiro train station, Florida Street and the Congress. I ended with a well deserved gelato.
Casa Rosada
Eva and Juan Peron
Tall Ship in Harbor
Harrods on Florida Street - Still empty
Evita's Broadcast
Tonight's dinner was the usual, at a restaurant I've been to many times before - an amazing steak and fries.
November 11
Time to leave Buenos Aires for my flight to Salta. Today was the day the air traffic controllers decided to strike - no flight.
I contacted the tour guide, Mariano, and told him I need to take the van.
I got to his apartment, dropped off my luggage, and had my only meal of the day - a steak, of course.
We loaded the van and left around 7:00 pm. We picked up others along the way. I took a sleeping pill at around eleven and faded off.
November 12
After a restless night, I just tried to entertain myself for the ride. We did watch a DVD with Morgan Freeman and Angolina Jolie. It was very violent, but in English. I did not watch the second feature.
The ride was what books on tape were meant for. I finished the last ten hours of The Trials of Zion.
Finally at 5:30 pm we reached Salta. It took a while to find everyone else, and didn't make it to the hotel until 7:30 - 24.5 hours. Salta is in the northwest corner of Argentina, next to the Andes.
We had a late dinner and I was off to bed.
November 13
The Bo Hotel in Chicoana was awesome. The owners, Roxana and Tony could not have been any nicer. The food was amazing. I highly recommend the Bo Hotel.
Bo Hotel
After orientation we loaded onto the van and headed for our first downhill ride. Out of 67 kilometers, only one might have been uphill. We eventually started the downhill trek at 2:00 pm - I must remember I am on Latin time.
The first few kilometers were on paved roads, but the majority was on gravel, not my favorite. After adjusting my gears, off I went. The weather was great and the scenery even better.
We had lunch from 4-5:00 pm then another 30km to the hotel. I got back after seven, but in plenty of time for Roxana's lomo (steak) dinner.
November 14
Today we started riding a little earlier - 1:00 pm, after a stop at the airport and the bike shop.
Today's ride was in the tropical rain forest, and yes it rained. I donned my rain gear and pedalled uphill. At least it wasn't cold.
At the peak we decided not to have lunch in the rain. So we cycled downhill through the forest. The highlight was the cows in the road.
Stretching after cycling
We finally had lunch at 4pm. We then took the van for hours to our next destination.
November 15
First of all, the colors in the mountains were awesome. You could see every color of the rainbow in Purmamarca..
We then took the van to the completely white and extremely dry Salinas Grandes - Great Salt Flats.
After lunch we had a 4km uphill ride before the 37 downhill ride, this time on paved roads. I really don't have cold weather gear, and at the peak it was about 45 degrees. At one point I had two jerseys, two jackets, a long sleeve t-shirt and a sweatshirt on. My only cold spot was my fingers.
As usual, I was last, stopping to take 100 pictures.
Once we reached Purmamarca, we took a 3km ride around town. Of course my bicycle gears went wacky.
For dinner I had tenderloin of llama. Well, it didn't taste like chicken. I ordered it rare, but never saw any pink. My friend Cristian, from France, said it tasted more like goat. I think llama is off my list. I did have alpaca in Peru years ago, that was much better.
The gate to my hotel was locked, so Christian boosted me over the wall. What am I, twelve?
November 16
Today we left Purmamarca for our normal two hour ride before cycling. We unloaded our bikes for our toughest day yet. We would go uphill 14 km and down 28. I told Mariano that my gears still were not working. After 1/2 hour of trying to fix them, he gave me his bike. It was a gravel trail uphill, at about 4000 meters.
So off I went, a half an hour after the pack. The first kilometer wasn't that bad, but then it seemed that the incline kept growing. I started having trouble breathing at this altitude. So I took it real slow and stopped often. Finally, after what seemed a marathon, I saw the van in the distance. This was only 10 of the 14 uphill kilometers.
That's the road I just climbed
I made it but realized I had exceeded my limit. After lunch I opted for the van. It took me the whole day to recover.
The van ride was extremely scenic. It was similar to the mountains in Arizona, but distinct. The final 10km was next to a dry riverbed. I will have to figure out why it was dry. It is spring here so the snow should be melting.
We arrived in Iruya and made our way to the simple hotel. There is no better way to describe it.
I expect dinner to be the same.
Dinner turned out to be very good. I had chicken Milanese with salad. I'll probably have the same tomorrow. I skipped desert and opted for bed.
November 17
Today was a break from cycling. We were hiking 16km to a small village, San Isidro. I thought it would be easy. Well the start was. We hiked 2km downhill (Yes I know I will have to walk the 2km uphill later.)
Then we started the uphill trek. We came to a small stream and had to cross by stepping on rocks. Not too bad. Well the next crossing was much longer and the rocks not as evenly spaced. Everyone, except Danny and I went across. We looked for alternative crossings, but there were none. So we took off our shoes and waded across. Mariano, the guide, said the future crossing would be easier. Well he told the truth. I didn't like crossing on rocks, but I did it 12 times.
We reached our destination and spent an hour or so in this tiny village. I found out the village just got electricity two years ago. We hardly saw a soul, except the children escaping from school.
This was the lock on my Iruya room. Primitive, but it worked.
Going back we had two choices - the high road or the low road. The high road had narrow paths near the cliffs. I opted for the stones across the river. I counted 12 crossings. Danny and I even crossed the difficult spot without taking our shoes off.
The hardest part, as I mentioned before, was the last two uphill kilometers. Tomorrow I will be glad to get back on the bike.
November 18
Today is another high altitude ride - starting at 3200 meters and climbing to 3700 meters, before a 32km decent to 2800 meters. I've opted for only the last two kilometer climb.
We started from Iruya for our normal two hour ride to the start. After 3km, the van died. They attempted to fix it until we gave up and cycled back to Iruya.
Today was the day the senior citizens received their Social Security payment. The all took there money and made their monthly purchases at the street fair below.
I think the quality of goods at the street fair were probably better then the one's at Lake Eola in Orlando.
Here I am on a suspension bridge across the river, going to the suburbs of Iruya.
We waited a few hours before we decided to take a three hour public bus ride to Humahuaca. Most of the ride was on narrow dirt roads, next to steep cliffs, my favorite. From there we took another bus to Tilcara.
We heard the van was repaired, but it died after 5km. So it looked like our final day of cycling was canceled. I was secretly glad because this was the most difficult day, almost all uphill.
November 19
We slept late. Everyone went for a hike, but I read instead.
In the afternoon we took cars to Salta (where I stayed the night), and others took a bus to Buenos Aires (not another 24 hours for me).
Salta is pretty, but my two hour walking tour was more then enough. The shops were on the Kmart Woolworth ilk.
Who knew I would be there for the Salta Marathon.
Whenever I travel, I bring lots of NY Times crossword puzzles. I only have a few left. I also download 6 or 8 a day when I have wifi. I would have gone crazy without the crossword puzzles or the books on tape.
November 20
My flight from Salta to Buenos Aires was uneventful, luckily. I went to the Axel Hotel, where I've stayed before. I was tired and exhausted, and all my clothes were full of dust. I called American Airlines and was able to change my ticket to fly home tonight. I spent the afternoon wandering the street fair in San Telmo. I bought six little framed photos of Buenos Aires. I had a fantastic steak before heading for the airport and my journey home.
