Friday, January 27, 2012

Madrid - January 2012




The first time I was in Madrid was in 1965.  It was between my junior and senior years of high school.  It is amazing, but I actually remember parts of that trip.  We took a charter constellation airplane (4 props) from Idewild (before it was JFK) to Madrid.  The flight took 12 hours - 16 on the return.  We then had a four hour bus ride from Madrid to the University of Salamanca, where I studied Spanish for four weeks.  We then spent almost two weeks traveling Spain by bus.  The cost of this 5 1/2 week trip was about $600, including air, tuition, room and board, and all transportation, meals and hotels.  Now the flight alone is at least $600.

Getting back to this trip, I left Orlando on Tuesday, January 17th.  Of course I took the most direct routing through Dallas.  Those airline miles make you do strange things.  The flight from Dallas was delayed an hour so I enjoyed multiple glasses of champagne.  The food on the flight was excellent.  I missed all the entertainment, since I fell asleep right after dinner.

Day 1

I slept most of the flight and I was feeling quite good on arrival.  I collected my luggage and took three Metro trains to my hotel.  I later found out how centrally located my hotel was.  I could walk anywhere.  So, I took a short nap before venturing out.  I took a walk to Retiro Park, passing many sights I will revisit in a few days.


Palicio de Cibeles


Retiro Park

My ultimate destination was Atocha Train Station.  You know how I love the European train stations.  This was no exception with its beautiful vaulted ceiling.  The actual trains leave from an adjacent building.  I then took the main street past the Prado Museum, on my way back to my hotel.


Atocha Train Station



I rested before a late dinner.  I arrived at 8:30pm, and no one else showed up until I was long gone.  In Spain, the locals don't eat until 10pm or later.

Day 2

I was up early on Thursday.  I purchased a five day Madrid Card good for entrance to most museums and attractions.  My first stop was the Plaza Mayor.  It was very impressive.  Next I went to the Royal Palace, which is still used for state events.  The King of Spain lives outside the village of Madrid.  Yes, I learned that Madrid is only a village, with 4 million inhabitants.



Plaza Mayor


Rooftop Chariot


Royal Palace




I then returned to the Plaza Mayor for a 2 hour walking tour.  It was very informative especially the history of Spain and Madrid.  After the tour I visited the cathedral which only opened 20 years ago.  I walked down to the river and took some amazing photos of the palace and cathedral from below.


Sun's Reflection inside Cathedral



Royal Palace and Cathedral from River

I opted for a Metro ride back instead of climbing the steep hill.  At the transfer station I had to take five long escalators to reach the main entrance.  I must have been half a mile underground.  After lunch and a brief rest I tried visiting two more museums.  The first was small with only about 12 "THINGS", the name of the exhibit.  One was 7 nails nailed into the wall.  The second museum had closed their exhibit, so instead I walked the Grand Via, the shopping street, like Fifth Avenue.  I did buy an expensive soap dispenser.  Ask to see it when you visit.


Starbucks and Duncan Donuts Together


January Sales Were Everywhere

Day 3

Today was museum day.  After a late start I first visited the Prado Museum.  I was expecting at least a few modern paintings but all they had were the older dark classical and religious paintings.  There were lots of Goyas, Rubens, Valazquezs and Rembrandts.  Not an impressionist painting in the museum.



Prado Museum

After lunch I walked through the botanical gardens with 1000s of dead plants.  Next I stopped at the Caixa Forum and saw a very modern exhibit using basic shapes.  The next museum was the more modern Reina Sofia.  Here there were 100s of Picasso's, including his famous Guernica.  There was also a nice collection of the work of Dali.


Calder Mobile


The Last Picasso

My next museum, the Railroad Museum was closed so I will return tomorrow.  My final museum for the day was the Navel Museum with lots of ship models.  So after 6 hours of museums I wearily made my way back to my hotel and enjoyed a large chocolate bar.

Day 4

Another day of museums.  I woke up at 11:15am this morning.  I can't believe I slept so late.  I didn't even have that much to drink the night before.  This is the first time I'm using voice activation to type this blog.

My first stop was the train museum which I missed yesterday.  It was interesting but crowded with lots of little children since it was Saturday.  Next I went to the science museum which was very small.  They had a few interesting exhibits.




Train Museum

I then took the metro to the west park.  Here I saw an Egyptian temple that was transported from Egypt, saving it from a portion of the Nile River that was flooded to build a dam.  The hieroglyphics were amazing.



Temple of Debod

I backtracked to visit the Cerraldo Museum, which was the surprise gem on this adventure.  It was a large house with 100s of paintings, sculptures and other art.  It was packed into about 12 rooms.  There was hardly space to walk.  It reminded me of someone who collects articles all their life and never throws anything away.


Cerraldo Museum

It was about 3 pm so I decided to have lunch.  I found a nice cafe and enjoyed a chicken sandwich and a nice cold beer.  It was so hot I had to take my jacket off.  Then I took a cable car for a round trip across the river.


View from Cable Car


Flying Saucer



After the cable car I stopped at the ABC museum which was a dud.  The only exhibits there were fashion drawings from the thirties and forties.

It was after 5 o'clock so I took a leisurely walk back to my hotel.

Day 5

The highlight of the day was the bullring. The lowlight of the day was the wax museum.  I took a tour of the bull fighting arena which I had been to during a bullfight in 1965.  Needless to say I don't remember anything, except a ring of red from the bull's blood as they dragged him out of the ring.  I took a guided tour and the guide was kind enough to take a number of pictures of me.



Plaza del Toros with Matador



Next I went to the Sunday street fair.  It was too crowded and I left before being pick-pocketed.  I think I might have gone to a wax museum once in my life but I can assure you I will never go again.  Disney spoils everything.  After lunch I went to the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum which was probably the best museum I saw in Madrid.  There was plenty of impressionist artwork which is my favorite.



So Realistic - Not

For dinner I had the best paella ever.  I went to this restaurant yesterday but could not get seated.  The minimum order was for 2 persons, but the owner let me have a single serving.  I had a lobster and clam paella.  I really must learn how to make it.  I think it really depends on the rice.

Day 6

I spent my last day in Spain visiting Segovia.  I had been there in 1965 but except for the aqueduct, I didn't remember it.  Spain like the rest of Europe now has high speed trains.  In less then half an hour I covered over 60 miles from Madrid to Segovia.

The first thing you see is the amazing aqueduct, which is over 2000 years old.  I now have at least 50 pictures of the aqueduct.  The weather was at least 10 degrees colder in Segovia and I forgot my hat and gloves.



Water Trough on Top of Aqueduct




So I walked quickly to see the sights, including the Plaza Major,  the cathedral and the Alcazar.


Alcazar



What is This?


And What is This?


Madrid's Four Modern Skyscrapers

I returned to Madrid and my nice warm hotel room.  After dinner it's time to pack since I leave for Orlando tomorrow.

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